Surfing in Talk Story
- June 11, 2015, 9:52 p.m.
- |
- Public
Aloha…
I started surfing in the early 60s… just after I got out of high school…
We would drive up to Bolinas… put on our shorty wet suit tops… wax the boards… and get in the water…
Between sets… we would just sit on our boards and talk story…
Looking back on those times… I think that for every minute I rode a wave… I must have sat on my board waiting for at least ten minutes…
Sort of like fishing… there’s fishing… and then there’s catching… but it’s all called fishing…
Fond memories…
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